2 Stroke oil injection pump test
This page shows tests exclusive for Kawasaki rotary valve models listed, however the tests are very similar for other makes/models (Yamaha, Suzuki, ect...) with mechanical oil injection. The rate of output will differ slightly but this procedure can be used as a guide. Always consult the specific manual for models not listed. That said, if your bike came with oil injection it is wise to keep it functioning. Read THIS ARTICLE about the potential pitfalls of removing the injection system entirely on some makes and models.
Always use a 2 stroke oil that specifically states for use in injection systems. "Pre-mix only" labeled oils do not have the correct viscosity to flow through the tiny lines and passages to provide adequate lubrication. Choose any brand you want as they are far superior to anything that was available in the 60-70's, just be sure it is suitable for oil injection systems.
Always use a 2 stroke oil that specifically states for use in injection systems. "Pre-mix only" labeled oils do not have the correct viscosity to flow through the tiny lines and passages to provide adequate lubrication. Choose any brand you want as they are far superior to anything that was available in the 60-70's, just be sure it is suitable for oil injection systems.
Oil Pump Air bleeding & output test
for Kawasaki SuperLube & Injectolube systems. Similar for other Makes/Models
1. Remove oil pump check valve outlet pipe (the banjo bolt, see Fig 1)
Air bleeding
1a. Fill oil tank (engine off)
1b. Slightly open banjo bolt (do not remove) to the feed line from the tank to the pump
1c. Let oil drip until most or all air has been purged from feed line
1d. Tighten feed line banjo bolt.
2. Fill 20:1 premix in the tank before starting the engine.
3. Remove the cable for the oil pump so it can be opened fully for the test/air bleeding.
4. With some wire open the pump cam to full throttle position.
5. Start engine and run at aprox. 2,000 RPM.
Air Bleeding
5a. Observe the oil output until the outlet line from the pump is full or a steady drip occurs, stop engine
6. (Restart engine) With a stopwatch run the engine for 3 minutes while collecting the oil from the oil pipe.
Specifications are listed for each model in the table.
*For models not listed, use the closest appropriate model displacement (F6 125cc, F7 175cc..) as Kawasaki only made minor revisions over the years but the oil pump output will be similar and should be within a similar output.
Example: G-Series output specification would be similar for later 80-100cc models such as the KE/KV/KM100, MC1, KD80, ect.. as they share similarities.
for Kawasaki SuperLube & Injectolube systems. Similar for other Makes/Models
1. Remove oil pump check valve outlet pipe (the banjo bolt, see Fig 1)
Air bleeding
1a. Fill oil tank (engine off)
1b. Slightly open banjo bolt (do not remove) to the feed line from the tank to the pump
1c. Let oil drip until most or all air has been purged from feed line
1d. Tighten feed line banjo bolt.
2. Fill 20:1 premix in the tank before starting the engine.
3. Remove the cable for the oil pump so it can be opened fully for the test/air bleeding.
4. With some wire open the pump cam to full throttle position.
5. Start engine and run at aprox. 2,000 RPM.
Air Bleeding
5a. Observe the oil output until the outlet line from the pump is full or a steady drip occurs, stop engine
6. (Restart engine) With a stopwatch run the engine for 3 minutes while collecting the oil from the oil pipe.
Specifications are listed for each model in the table.
*For models not listed, use the closest appropriate model displacement (F6 125cc, F7 175cc..) as Kawasaki only made minor revisions over the years but the oil pump output will be similar and should be within a similar output.
Example: G-Series output specification would be similar for later 80-100cc models such as the KE/KV/KM100, MC1, KD80, ect.. as they share similarities.
Oil output chart for specific models
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Fig. 1 Oil pump banjo bolt removed
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Oil output table (engine size - oil output) Single cylinder models
G Series (engine 80-100cc) oil output 0.095oz ~ 2.8cc (covers many models, too many to list, see identification page)
B1L-A (engine 120-125cc) oil output 0.112oz ~ 3.6cc (includes C1, C2 120cc models unique and somewhat rare)
F6 (engine 125cc) oil output 0.139 ~ 4.1cc (would include later KS125, KD125, KE125, KH125, AR125 models)
F7 (engine 175cc) oil output 0.186oz ~ 5.5cc (would include F3 and later KE175, KD175 models)
F8 (engine 250cc) oil output 0.203oz ~ 6cc (would include earlier F4, but not later F11)
F11 (engine 250cc) *oil output 0.135oz ~ 4cc (conversion to units per 3 minutes is approximate see inset below)
F5/F9 (engine 350cc) oil output 0.338oz ~ 10cc
G Series (engine 80-100cc) oil output 0.095oz ~ 2.8cc (covers many models, too many to list, see identification page)
B1L-A (engine 120-125cc) oil output 0.112oz ~ 3.6cc (includes C1, C2 120cc models unique and somewhat rare)
F6 (engine 125cc) oil output 0.139 ~ 4.1cc (would include later KS125, KD125, KE125, KH125, AR125 models)
F7 (engine 175cc) oil output 0.186oz ~ 5.5cc (would include F3 and later KE175, KD175 models)
F8 (engine 250cc) oil output 0.203oz ~ 6cc (would include earlier F4, but not later F11)
F11 (engine 250cc) *oil output 0.135oz ~ 4cc (conversion to units per 3 minutes is approximate see inset below)
F5/F9 (engine 350cc) oil output 0.338oz ~ 10cc
*F11 oil pump flow rate chart. Kawasaki does not give a specific quantity of oil output per 3 minutes like previous rotary valve models (F11 is a piston port). The chart below expresses oil output per hour at specific throttle openings and approximately 3,000rpm. The units above have been converted to output per 3 minutes to maintain consistency. All things considered as long as the oil pump cam alignment marks are set correctly the corresponding oil output will be within spec.
F11 (250cc) oil pump output/hour chart
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F11 (250cc) oil pump adjuster
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